With hooded eyes, the fold of skin above the eyelid drops and covers much of the lid when the eye is open. It is very common, and it has a direct effect on wedding makeup: what is applied with the eye closed can disappear the moment the bride opens it. That is why wedding makeup for hooded eyes is done differently, with the open eye in mind, because that is how they will appear in every photograph.
Why hooded eyes are made up with the eyes open
Part of the makeup is done with the eye closed and part with the bride looking straight ahead. The inner corner, for example, can be worked on with the eye closed without any problem. The crease, on the other hand, is best made up with the eye open. With the eye closed everything seems to work, but once it opens, the fold hides what has been done. Looking straight ahead shows exactly where the colour has to go to make the eye look more open and the crease look lifted.
Where eyeshadow goes on hooded eyes
The most important thing with hooded eyes is to make up the area from the crease upwards well. That is where medium or dark shades go, depending on the style, blended upwards to open up the eyes. The lash line can also be deepened with those same shades, softly blended. Light, luminous shades are kept for the lid itself, towards the inner corner.
The angle and the direction in which the brush carries the eyeshadow change with the shape of each eyelid. They are adjusted until the eyes look balanced.
Matte or shimmer eyeshadow for hooded eyes
Matte finishes are the most flattering on hooded eyes. Shimmer is kept for the inner corner, where it brightens the eyes without drawing attention to the fold.
What makeup suits hooded eyes?
Matte eyeshadow in medium or dark shades, from the crease upwards and well blended. Light shades go on the lid, and shimmer only at the inner corner.
Eyeliner for hooded eyes
You can wear eyeliner, and it helps a great deal. I use a gel liner, because it lets me blend it before it sets. That gives a finish that lengthens the eye and lifts it, without a hard line for the fold to cut through.
Should I wear eyeliner if I have hooded eyes?
Yes. A gel liner, blended before it sets, lengthens the eye and lifts it without leaving a hard line.
How lashes make hooded eyes look bigger
The last step in opening up the eyes is the lashes. I like individual false lashes, in small clusters, placed at the outer corner of the eye. Sometimes a full strip cut in half and placed only at that corner also works, depending on the eye. And when no false lashes are worn, a good mascara does the same job.
If you have hooded eyes, your makeup is tried at the trial with your eyes open, the way it will look in the photographs. That is where the placement of each colour is adjusted so your eyes look more open.
